“Wrong Jacket Theory” Is the Spring Style Trick for Main Character Outfit Energy

We’ve all been there: You’ve put time and careful thought into planning a creative outfit, but the weather dictates that you layer a coat over it all. It can be easy to get into a style rut of uninspired ensembles under your go-to outerwear, so making intentional, often-unexpected choices may be exactly what you need. You likely already have several jackets with a range of aesthetics, and what if we told you that styling them a bit chaotically may be exactly what you need to make your coat-centered outfit work? Enter the “wrong coat theory,” which—just like its “wrong shoe theory” cousin—makes the case that taking a fashion risk just may take your style to new heights. Read on to learn more about this viral styling hack, from what it entails to several ways to style it.

Meet the Experts

Amanda Vargus is the founder and lead stylist at Wave + Woven, a personal wardrobe curation service.

What Is the Wrong Jacket Theory?

Technically going viral as the wrong coat theory, this is “a styling trick to create a visual interest and an element of surprise to your outfit,” according to Amanda Vargus, the founder and lead stylist of Wave + Woven. This trend, popularized on TikTok, encourages pairing two items that don’t typically go together, like an oversized parka and a slip dress. We wouldn’t think these two pieces would work together, but it turns out that they create an interesting look, in the same way that Charlotte York’s unexpected choices take her classic style into icon territory. The same rule of thumb can be applied to your jackets for spring.

With a provocative name like “wrong coat theory,” this styling hack is designed to make you stop and embrace a new way of thinking. “We’ve seen this widely popularized,” Vargus says, “adding a dressier coat to an otherwise simple or casual outfit. Think a warm fur over a tracksuit, or a long wool jacket topping off a jeans-and-tee look. The opposite juxtaposition is being adopted as well.” A puffer coat or varsity jacket paired with a maxi skirt, perhaps? Sounds like the dressed-up-dressed-down hybrid we never knew we needed.

How to Try It

While the wrong jacket theory gives us the freedom to break fashion rules and try different pieces, the look can still take some strategy to get the results you want, which could be intimidating to start. “Clients will default to their ‘dressy’ coat over a more formal outfit or their ‘casual’ jacket over a more laid back look,” Vargus says. “I encourage them to experiment with different juxtapositions, as the unexpected option lends a more interesting and unique layering piece.”

Next time you’re going for a casual look like jeans and a t-shirt, reach for a dramatic mob wife coat or longline leather statement trench for a dressier look. If you’re dressed up for date night, an event, or going out with friends, consider pairing your look with an oversized leather bomber or barn jacket for an unexpected twist.

It’s also important to pay attention to proportions when using the wrong coat theory. Vargus recommends looking for “volume or length in a coat to balance out the base of the look.” If you’re wearing a maxi dress, consider adding a midi-length coat, and if you’re wearing a mini skirt or shorts, opt for a long trench coat to create a unique look that still has balance.

Wrong Jacket Theory Inspiration

Looking for more specific guidance on how to try the wrong jacket theory? Ahead, check out five standout examples of the trend in action, complete with product picks and styling tips.